This may prove to be the most enjoyable day of the whole tour as we drove the Ring of Kerry in the beautiful Killarney National Park – even though the bus was hot! The Ring of Kerry is a 100-mile panoramic drive around the islands southwestern tip. The scenery is spectacular — mountains, peat bogs, lakes, rocks, wide vistas, thick forests of oak and beech and fern abound, and magnificent views of the Atlantic Ocean come often. Some evergreen can be seen in the higher mountain areas. By law, buses must drive this “ring” in a counterclockwise manner. Containing many tight turns and narrow areas, one can easily understand why buses should all drive the Ring in the same direction! Chris had a great opportunity to display his skill as a bus driver on the narrow roads meeting cars on curves that looked to be impossible! Our route followed N71 to Kenmare, N70 around the Iveragh Peninsula to Killorglin – passing through Sneem, Waterville, Cahersiveen, and Glenbeigh – before returning to Killarney via N72.
Our first stop was at Ross Castle, a 15th century tower house on the natural lake, the Lough Leane Lake – the largest of the three lakes of Killarny. This castle, the home of the O’Donoghue clan, was evidently the last one taken by Oliver Crowmwell during the Irish Confederate wars. The occupants had evidently been warned by a goat that escaped which gave them time to prepare. Cromwell accomplished his task by constructing a warship right on the lake using materials brought by boat via the River Laune.
As the bus continued on this lovely drive, cameras were constantly in use. The bus stopped several times so we could walk through the most beautiful scenery in God’s creation!
Peat beds were often in sight. Peat is half way to coal. It is found in bogs as much as 10′ deep. Pieces are dug out and allowed to dry for 3-8 months. People can either dig the peat themselves or buy it after it dries. Peat is slow-burning and makes a romantic warmth!
An interesting stop was Ladies’ View, a scenic panorama. The name stems fro the admiration of the view given by Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting during their 1861 visit, “This view should be reserved for ladies!”
Patrick says that a 100-mile bike race is held around this Ring of Kerry. For those strong enough, this would be a lovely ride. It is so lovely even from a bus window!
Another especially enjoyable stop was at the Muckross House, built for Henry Arthur Herbert and his wife, Mary Balfour Herbert. Our wonderful guide, Nora, explained the huge home, which was built between 1839 and 1843, and was occupied by the Muckross family for almost 200 years. Evidently at least a part of their wealth came from mining copper. The home displays the elegant lifestyle of the nineteenth century landowning class. The landlord loved hunting in the untouched forest. Above the mantle are a priceless set of giant deer antlers, found buried from extinct deer from 10,000 years ago. The living room shutters remain closed to prevent fading – but were opened in 2007 for the visit of Prince Charles and his wife. Women could read and gather in another area where they would be shielded from the men’s activities, too masculine for their delicate eyes. Shields near the fireplace could be used to save women’s beeswax makeup — giving rise to the terms “saving face” and “mind your beeswax.”
The house reportedly has 92 rooms. Waterford chandeliers can be seen throughout. Dancing was held in the reception hall. Children were cared for and taught in the nursery by servants and apparently didn’t join their parents for activities and meals until age 11-12. They were sent away to boarding schools such as Eaton. Mary enjoyed painting – just for fun. On August 26, 1861, Queen Victoria visited the estate. Because of her fear of fire, she slept on the ground floor instead of in the upstairs bedrooms.
Many of the servants evidently gave their whole lives to caring for their masters. Of special interest were the servants’ quarters, totally separated from the eyes of the house’s occupants. A huge window was of clouded glass so the family would not have to see the servants at work outside. An elaborate bell cord system called servants to meet family members’ every need and wish. Different sounds came from different bells, allowing servants to know which room they were being called to. The butler had one of only two keys to the wine cellar. Cooking was all done in the basement, and servants carried heavy dishes of food a long way to reach the Muckross’ meal table.
The house reportedly has 62 chimneys. Our group count reached close to that. The gardens surrounding the house are lovely and elaborate. The estate was gifted to the Irish government. To the original 11,000 acres, subsequent donations raised the total acreage to 26,000 acres.
We walked to an abbey connected to the estate.
None will be able to surpass this lovely day!
All over Ireland we enjoyed the lovely homes, well-tended flowers and hanging flower baskets. We seldom saw decaying buildings except for those that were being maintained as historic memories, and junk piles and messy yards were non-existent. Even old buildings were painted and maintained well. We were struck by the fact that National Parks in the US prevent the billboards and the messes that often result from private ownership. Ireland is consistently beautiful even under private ownership.
Farm fields are small, bordered by shrub walls or rock walls – built by farmers as they cleared their small farms for farming. All across Ireland, this seems to be an identifying feature of the farming countryside, The farms all over Ireland appear to be well-tended and productive. Crops include hay, grain, truck farming, and crops that we couldn’t identify. Stock include milk dairy and beef cows, a lot of sheep, and some horses. It’s hard to believe that Ireland was once a poor country.
This year, it is very dry here – and hot for Ireland. The media reports that this was the driest June in 77 years and the warmest in 76 years. What a time to visit with a bus that isn’t cooling well! At least there must be no solution for the bus – given that David and Wanda Nyce, Pilgrim Tours owner, are part of our group!
We smile at one of Patrick’s obviously important jobs – counting tour members each time we’ve stopped – before the bus can pull back out!
Evidently Irish Kerry butter is a delicacy in the United States.
We gathered for dinner together at 8 p.m. in our hotel.